Turning a fashion trend into camping sales
By Martin Vilaboy
There certainly are recent cases in which fashion trends, cultural crazes or mainstream movements and fads have impacted outdoor participation and product sales. The move toward “Made in USA” and the related rise of “heritage,” for example, was a boon to many outdoor brands, as was the general yoga/fitness craze, which also undoubtedly encouraged some folks to take their workouts to the trail. Likewise, the American mindset during the most recent recession clearly pushed many folks toward camping as an affordable vacation, or staycation, option.
So as we head into the summer recreation season, the question we posed to several outdoor industry veterans, experts and friends is whether or not the emergence of an urban outdoorsy mentality and fashion consciousness, lumped under the moniker “lumbersexual,” can be leveraged to sell camping. In other words, can retailers and brands – through the proper marketing, merchandising and assortment – entice lumbersexuals to try their manicured hands at camping this spring and summer, and hence buy camping product? How one answered these questions depends a lot on whether one views the ongoing trend as little more than a fashion statement and fad or as representing something much deeper underneath the beard and plaid.
If the urban woodsman sensibility is simply based solely or mostly on the right “look” and coinciding brand labels, then the prospects are pretty low that those Bespoke hatchets will actually be chopping any campfire wood.
“One is a fashion trend; the other a long-established form of recreation,” says Jeff Basford, president of Paha Que. “It’s kind of like a baseball bat manufacturer trying to capitalize on a spike in ball cap sales.”
Indeed, it’s silly to expect the hippest of hipsters, or those who view camping as “a hotel with no room service,” to abandon their trendy urban lofts and studios for air-mattresses on a dirt floor.
“Just because these guys have let the beard go rugged, doesn’t mean they aren’t still obsessed with grooming. Camping and the outdoors might be too dirty for this crowd,” says James Graven of Treehouse Communications, whose clients include technical brands Montane as well as heritage brands Helle of Norway (artisan knives) and Hults Bruks (axes). “Glamping may be an inroad for these types, where they can stand around looking good, drinking high-end bourbon from steel flasks and cooking gourmet food on cast-iron pans while oiling their beards. But I won’t expect to see a bunch of Brookly-nites heading to the Gunks to try their hand at climbing, backpacking or mountaineering,”
Of course, the urban woodsman trend has grown far beyond the trendiest neighborhoods at the center of the largest NFL cities, as evidenced by Target’s recent unveiling of its Target Collective, a collection of U.S.-made leather goods, gifts and clothes for the manliest of men. Described as “decidedly lumbersexual,” the collection combines pieces from brands such as Taylor & Stich, Owen & Fred, Locally Grown, Duluth Packs and Billykirk.
Official press photos from Target’s leap into urban outdoorsy with its Target Collective
Regardless of Target’s motivations, however, there are those who see the lumbersexual trend as something more culturally significant than the latest pet rock syndrome. When put in context, the lumbersexual or urban woodsman emerges as a type of reaction to what can be viewed as emasculating trends prevalent during the last several years, as well as a somewhat pampered urban existence.
“The beard and outdoor wear brings a certain manly ruggedness that overcomes the femininity of the metrosexual look,” says Craven.
“It’s the surfacing of inner desires, an inner manliness channeling Paul Bunyan as a foil for Venti lattes, diaper changing and the absence of any existential risk or soul-cleansing adventure in an increasingly sanitized and predictable life,” says Cam Brensinger, founder and CEO of NEMO Equipment.
While fully admitting to the fad and vanity elements, Brensinger believes the beard, plaid and manly accoutrements reflect a desire to find more meaning in life.
“To me, the beard is the literal and figurative outgrowth of an inner masculine id, a latent but potent desire to face real challenges, to know and overcome hardship, to be a provider,” he explains.
Modern civilized life, despite the advancements, has in some regards distanced itself from some simple, primitive truths, Brensinger argues. “Modern man has few socially acceptable outlets for his inner manliness. His desires are forced to wither and die, or surface, pathetically, in minor contests of grilling, first-person shooter video games or fantasy football.”
In turn, the outdoorsy sensibility, continues Brensinger, sends a message that a man should wear clothes than enable, not inhibit him; a beard for concealment and protection; a pocket knife for utility and readiness; and boots for stature and capability. “If it’s only fashion, maybe it stops there, but if it’s really about connecting with some hardwired primitive inner-self, shouldn’t he also desire to fend for himself and secure his own basic elements of survival: water, fire, food and shelter?” asks Brensinger. If lumbersexuality is indeed an authentic expression of manliness, “camping should be a natural fit. It’s the perfect opportunity to put the clothing, the boots and the Gransfors axe to good use.”
Put into a bit more simplistic terms, “Classy dudes are realizing that ladies like them with a little stubble and a big sense of adventure,” quips Jack Knoll, marketing director and Forsake.
Although maybe a bit facetious, Knoll’s observation is backed up by some anecdotal evidence. According to a recent “Social Buzz” from the Outdoor Industry Association, females discussing the topic online “want lumbersexual men to not only dress the part but be authentic and actually have some amount of outdoor expertise,” writes OIA.
So ultimately, if the trend is simply “the latest costume for membership in a hipster subculture,” as Brensinger puts it, the trend likely doesn’t have legs to stand up within the camping market, and would be risky to build a merchandising and assortment story upon. But if it’s also a manifestation of the desire to tap into every man’s inner Ron Swanson, well then, Ron certainly enjoys everything about camping.
‘Don’t Condescend Me Man’
Either way – a lasting cultural direction or temporary imagery – marketers looking to leverage the lumbersexual mystique should move forward with some caution. After all, the term “lumbersexual” itself can have negative connotations, used by some primarily as a derogatory term when poking fun at the trend and its adherents, suggests our informal survey of industry contestants.
This likely stems from the “poser” mentality, or a perception those who truly live the outdoor lifestyle can have toward folks who narcissistically adopt the “look” but not the ethos of that lifestyle. While possibly legitimate at times, such sentiments are certainly not conducive to growth or the inclusive spirit one would hope permeates the outdoor marketplace.
“The outdoor industry has a huge opportunity to gain from the current trend, but if we reinforce terms like [lumbersexual] we will alienate the very consumer we are looking to sell to: the millennial,” says Nate Borne, general manager at Snow Peak USA.
Snow Peak’s Stacking Shelf Center is not only a stylish way for the urban woodsman to store his accoutrements, but it’s also a nice campground merchandising piece for in-store.
Borne prefers the term “urban woodsman,” which is currently used by marketers and designers in the fashion industry.
“However, whatever the term we want to use, we should make sure we are marketing our lifestyle as positive as possible no matter the consumer, no matter the trend,” he says.
“As a guy who loves the outdoor lifestyle, lumbersexual just seems like a costume for someone who wants to play outdoors,” adds Craven. “But if it brings awareness to the outdoors and maybe turns a few people onto the outdoor lifestyle, then I’m all for it.”
So what are some ways to entice lumbersexuals to try camping? Heidi Allen, marketing director at Nikwax, suggests tapping into the desire to portray “manliness” combined with the group’s product-focused nature to create a scene she describes as “man glamping.”
“Highlight how the experience can be rugged, yet highly design-attuned,” she says. That means thinking along the lines of “urban-rugged,” says Allen, including concepts such as “campfire cocktails,” complete with high-end bourbon, or a local (possibly tattooed) chef discussing the best meats to cook over an open flame.
Highlighted camping products – or at least the accessories merchandised alongside of traditional campsite gear – should convey a sense of craftsman-ship and authenticity, says Allen, in agreement with many other experts in our panel. Such merchandising examples could include a hand-sewn, canvas Beckel log carrier or a beautiful, craftsman-made knife from Helle of Norway or Snow Peak’s eloquent-yet-very-masculine Copper Head Peg Hammer, as just a few examples.
This Beckel Canvas Log Carrier can be merchandised so “a lumbersexual can instantly picture himself standing on the edge of the forest, this carrier swung nonchalantly over his plaid-clad shoulder, as he adjusts his man-bun,” says Nikwax’s Allen.
Of course, that’s not to suggest style or design trumps substance.
“Unfortunately, a lot of lumbersexually designed products push pastiche over function, and many lumbersexuals have consequently had a bad experience using their stuff outdoor,” says Robert Fry, director of product at Mountain Hardwear.
After all, a major part to being “authentic,” and inherent to craftsmanship, are the concepts of reliability and built-for-purpose. “This consumer is attracted to well-designed, classic products that both work and last,” says Borne. And that plays to the strengths of specialty brands and retailers.
“Outdoor, similar to workwear, has designs that are much more based on function, and those functions, those fabrics and those historic styles tell a story that is attractive,” says Borne.
Handmade in Norway using darkened oak, curly birch and red leather inserts, the Algonquin from Helle Knives exemplifies the combination of design and utilitarianism that defines the urban woodsman.
When it comes to conveying the message built into those fabrics and functions, however, outdoor marketers may need to employ a different strategy than they have commonly used in the past.
“These are not going to ever be gear junkies that care about the fabric specs, the weight and other selling points we tend to perseverate on,” Borne continues. “They are much more interested in the emotion behind the design and story. How we sell is going to be based on the stories we tell and how we can inspire.”
Few things express more manliness than a tool roll, this one from Iron and Resin.
Not that it will be easy. Indeed, mustering up inspiration among urban woodsmen could require changing their entire perception of the campground experience.
“If we really want lumbersexuals to camp, which we should because we desperately need new audiences, we should recast the whole picture of camping into a Huckberry, Best Made, Iron and Resin look,” says Brensinger. That means casting aside the notions of blue tarps, cooler-soaked hot dog buns, reeking armpits, leaky tents and dirt-stained jeans that likely come to mind when most urban dwellers think about camping.
Snow Peak’s Copper Head Peg Hammer says heritage, sleek design, manliness and utilitarian all in one hand-held tool.
“We should transform the image of camping to look more like it does in Japan, for example,” says Brensinger. “The Japanese take creating an experience while camping very seriously.”
Indeed, the Japanese camping experience is seen as much more than cheap overnight accommodations or a place to conveniently crash after a day mountain biking or partying at a music festival. Rather, the experience is “thoughtfully chosen,” says Brensinger, with beautiful, high-quality gear, hours spent barbequing delicious food, and friends having relaxed conversation in comfortable furniture
“A campsite is composed with the deliberateness of home,” says Brensinger of the Japanese camper. “It has the primal ingredients of stars and fire and self-sufficiency, but it’s attractive, romantic, groomed and on display – kind of like the beard of a lumbersexual.”
