Jim Whittaker, who in 1963 became the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest, died Tuesday at his home in Port Townsend, Washington. He was 97. His death was confirmed by his family, including his son Leif Whittaker, who shared a statement with NPR.
Along with his world-famous outdoor pursuits, Whittaker also was REI’s first full-time employee, hired by the co-op in 1955, and eventually ran the company as the retailer’s second CEO, serving from 1971 to 1979, a period in which membership grew from nearly 250,000 to more than 900,000.
“During his tenure, he helped shape a co-op rooted in stewardship, humility, and a belief that time outside should be shared widely and protected fiercely,” said REI executives.
“Long before outdoor advocacy was commonplace, Jim gave his voice—and his leadership—to protecting the places we love, reminding us that wild places endure only if we choose to care for them,” continued the statement from REI.”
His testimony before the U.S. Congress in 1968 began his congressional work and later helped establish North Cascades National Park (WA), the Pasayten Wilderness (WA), and Redwood National Park (CA).
“Whether at home, in the mountains, or at sea, he sought to share adventure, joy, and optimism with those around him,” his son Leif wrote. “His warmth, humility, and belief in the power of nature to bring people together left an enduring legacy of care for our planet and for one another.”
Whittaker grew up in Seattle and started climbing in the 1940s with his twin brother and fellow Boy Scout, Lou Whittaker. At 16 years old, the two brothers summited Mount Olympus, the 7,965-foot, highest peak in Washington’s Olympic Mountains.
Whittaker went on to climb Mount Everest in 1963 alongside Nawang Gombu, which came 10 years after Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay became the first to reach the top. The achievement helped spark American interest in mountaineering and gave momentum to the outdoor specialty industry in the U.S.
Whittaker also climbed K2, the world’s second-tallest peak, and scaled Mount Rainier more than 100 times. In 1981, he led 10 handicapped climbers up Mount Rainier’s 14,410 feet, which he considered one of his proudest moments. Nearly a decade later, he led the Mount Everest International Peace Climb, uniting climbers from the U.S., Soviet Union and China.
“You’re in nature, participating in God’s creation … it’s such a high, such a spiritual thing,” Whittaker said in a 1981 interview, per PBS. “I think it’s good to participate in that and to face life. When you live on the edge, you can see a little farther.”
Whittaker is survived by his wife of 52 years, Dianne Roberts; sons Bob, Joss and Leif Whittaker; three grandchildren; and one great-grandchild.
