IO Report: Fiber Optics

Fiber Optics

Shedding light on three emerging natural fibers

by: Ernest Shiwanov

Today’s outdoor retailers know they face many challenges in making good buying decisions. The fast pace of technology alone has made taxing what had been traditionally simple decisions. Specifically, textile fiber technology has seen dramatic changes in both synthetic (e.g. polypropylene, polyesters, etc.) and protein-based (animal or plant sourced) fibers. Of late, protein-based fibers have seen an uptick of interest by manufacturers in non-traditional sources.

One of the reasons why could be the perception animal or plant-sourced fibers are more environmentally favorable over synthetics. Hand-in-hand with that notion, advances in protein-based fiber technology are slowly incorporating or enhancing characteristics thought possible only through synthetics. Water-resistant down is a recent example of how a treatment can partially overcome one of down’s negative attributes for outdoor recreationalists.

That said, it is worth taking a look at three trending fibers and contrast them with merino wool, a well-established if not de facto mainstay in protein-based fiber. The matrix below is a quick guide to the individual properties of these fibers. Although each column is fairly self-explanatory, the one labeled SuperWash requires some explanation (see sidebar).

The SuperWash debate is centered on the chemical waste in the process, the water consumed and the long-term public health risk to low levels of carcinogens. Ironically, these same chemicals essentially catapulted the staid wool industry into the 20th Century. Unfortunately, as seen time and time again with technological advancements, a leap in technology xsometimes brings unforeseen consequences. Although there have been successful efforts to address the chemical conundrum, the majority of SuperWash is still done in the same, not eco-friendly way, in third world countries.

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‘A’ is for Alpaca

Shawn Malloy, co-founder of Altera, is not just a marketer. From farm to fiber, Malloy knows all things alpaca and then some. His company, Royalty Fiber Farm and sister company U.S. Natural Fibers, specializes in handling boutique protein fibers such as alpaca, yak and bison. For Altera, Malloy only uses a small network of U.S. farmers considered to be in the premium alpaca fibers space. Using these exceptional fibers as a foundation, he personally engineers his alpaca fibers to his specifications. “I design my own yarn specifically for my socks. I know specifically what is going into my socks. I don’t buy my yarn off the shelf,” Malloy emphatically states.

There are multiple parameters that constitute a good fiber and how it is properly utilized, Malloy relates. He favors his sock fibers to be in the 23 to 24 micron range, arguing superfine fibers at 16 through 21 microns are not strong enough for his socks (1 micron {μm} = 1 thousandth of a millimeter/0.000039 inch).

Next, he designs the sock for a specific end use. For instance his Prevail is a triple-ply, all-season hiking sock, so he blends it with nylon for iron-like wear. Malloy enhances alpaca’s natural anti-bacterial/antistink properties with Silver Infusion Technology. He also claims the hollow nature of the fibers increases the comfort range 30 percent over merino: warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer. Since his alpaca fibers are washed with a citrus-based cleaner and not SuperWashed, the natural water repellency provided by the oily lipids found on the fiber’s surface is retained (Negri, A.P., H.J. Cornell and D.E. Rivett, 1993. A model for the surface of keratin fibers. Text. Res. J., 63: 109-115). Alpaca, Malloy says, is also hypoallergenic since it does not have lanolin unlike sheep’s wool; good news for those allergic to it.

Regarding SuperWash, a study conducted by PhDs Andy Tillman and Cheryl Tillman, published in Alpaca Magazine (Spring 2006), seems to confirm Malloy’s assertion of not needing it for alpaca. The Tillman’s compared fibers within the camelid family (alpacas, llamas, etc.) against Bombay silk, SRS merino (superfine), cashmere, angora and mohair. They used scanning electron microscopy (SEM) to make high resolution images of the surfaces of these fibers. They compared the number of cuticle scales per 100 microns and the height of the scales off the surface of the fibers. Their findings were clear: both types of alpaca had the lowest scale height and the least amount of scales per 100 microns. According to Tillman’s report, “The scale height of suri alpaca fiber was almost impossible to measure, even with digital imaging tools. It is essentially a mono-filament, like silk.” They go on to say, “While half the scale height of other sheep breeds, SRS merino is still more than 10 times greater than huacaya or suri alpaca (“Surface Scanning Electron Microscopy of Suri Alpaca Fiber and Other Members of the Camel Family.” Alpaca Magazine Spring 2006) 158-71. Web.)

Although the Tillman’s study is a welcome addition to the database on fiber characteristics, additional peer-reviewed research needs to be conducted to verify all fiber properties such as loft, hypoallergenic status, fire resistance, moisture regain, tensile strength and pilling, just to name a few. Until that happens, these socks thrive on personal DIY field research in any outdoors proving ground. However, data collection is purely optional.

YAK Attack

Kora is not the first manufacture to sell a line of yak wool apparel. Its business model, similar to Altera’s, is set on continuing to source, engineer and manufacture its own wool, but with a hitch: within a framework of sustainable development. As founder Michael Kleinwort’s puts it, “we are in fact, a fully integrated business that oversees our whole supply chain and production process.”

Getting there has taken a lot of effort. Kleinwort spent the better part of three years scouring the Tibetan Plateau (Qinghai) for indigenous communities with his entrepreneurial vision and a potential supply of yak wool. With his herder cooperative established, he has been able to stimulate employment, establish an alternative income stream and, through it, bring additional economic constancy to the Qinghai region. To do this, during the last five years, Kleinwort has been trading yak fiber above market rate in addition to incentivized benchmarks.

“We also pay a stipend at the end of the season of 10 percent in order to encourage the herders to return the next year to sell to us. These additional revenues help sustain these nomads’ livelihoods on the plateau,” Kleinwort submits.

When asked why all this effort, Kleinwort passionately responds, “positive change brings us closer to the understanding that all societies, including traditional communities, exist in a state of constant flux. We are always changing; nothing is static. This runs counter to the (Western) view that traditional societies should be preserved as they always have been. Kora’s view is that nomad culture and nomad societies are also changing and adapting to the new world around them – to survive, they must. We would like to help them adapt in a way that protects their cultural heritage and identity. For kora, this is about empowerment and education.”

Indeed, and within that scenario is the world’s reliance upon ancient stewardship practices nomadic communities still provide to the grasslands of the Tibetan Plateau. Not just only for themselves but for the billions of inhabitants downstream and ultimately around the world.

Clearly, expending so much energy to bring logistically challenged yak to market implies it must be pretty special. It is.

First, it is a very fine fiber but strong even at 18.3 μm, as used in kora’s Hima-Layer Original 230 yarns. The fibers are claimed to be hollow, fire resistant, anti-microbial and hydrophobic. Kleinwort reports testing done by SGS shows yak is 40 percent warmer than merino, weight-for-weight. He also shows results from a Sheffield Hallam University’s Centre for Sport & Exercise study concluding yak maintains homeostasis better than polyester or merino wool base layers (see table). The kora website also maintains kora’s yak “is 66 percent more breathable and is 17 percent better at transporting water vapour away from the skin.” Anecdotal feedback from athletes-testers confirms those assertions when comparing similar merino.

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When all the testing is eventually finished, there is no doubt, yak will be among the elite natural fibers, and kora will take its place among the elite brands. And in no small way, kora’s efforts to achieve the trifecta in sustainable development will unquestionably help them get there. United Under Bison United by Blue’s founder Brian Linton is obsessed by water. So much so, in 2010, he started UBB and with it a “pledge to remove 1 pound of trash from a river or ocean for every product UBB sells.” According to UBB’s website, as of this writing, 312,402 pounds of trash have been picked up between 155 cleanup events. Additionally, UBB has committed to the B-Corp framework and has been certified since 2011 (its score is double the median grade). Then there is the product line, with each item curated to fit into UBB’s ideal of doing right while doing good yet tough enough to handle the adventure that waits.

Of special interest is UBB’s bison collection. Bison fiber, similar to alpaca and yak, has some outstanding qualities differentiating it from merino. Like the aforementioned fibers, UBB sources from small ranchers, providing use for the hides previously discarded after the bison are converted into steaks. And similar to Altera and kora, all links in the supply chain are forged together by UBB in making its own bison apparel.

There are two types of bison fiber UBB uses in its garments. One is B100 insulation, a combination of 60 percent hollow bison guard hair fibers and 40 percent recycled polyester from PET bottles and post-industrial waste. Using coarse guard hairs as a component in B100 is not a problem since the bison/polyester batting is locked within the face and lining fabrics of the jacket.

However, for apparel, so called bison down is used for next-to-skin comfort. Despite being only six to seven microns in diameter, what they lack in microns, they make up in strength. They have “very strong tensile strength when compared to other natural fibers its same size,” explains Chris Dickey of Purple Orange PR.

Finally, bison appears to be hypoallergenic, lighter than wool, wicks well and is naturally anti-bacterial. The only feature not added to the Ultimate American Jacket by the bison is a lifetime guarantee – United By Blue does that while making good on its promise to clean up bodies of water, one event at a time.

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