The Access Fund and American Alpine Club announced their 2016 Anchor Replacement Fund grant awards. Now in its second year, the Anchor Replacement Fund was launched to address the growing concerns of anchor failure and the access issues that could result from these incidents.
Across the United States, bolts installed in the 1980s and 1990s are aging, creating a need to address inadequate fixed anchors and increase support for the growing number of local organizations and national partners that are tackling this problem, say the groups. “We are pleased to have awarded $10,000 again this year, to support 15 fixed anchor replacement projects across the country.”
The program is made possible by the support of outdoor companies including Climb Tech, Five Ten, Petzl and Trango. Here are the following worthy projects:
Arkansas Climbers Coalition
Arkansas Climbers Coalition (ARCC) was awarded funding for fixed anchor replacement at Sam’s Throne area, particularly The Outback and The West Main Bluff. The grant will augment their fixed anchor fund and support the work of ARCC’s volunteer anchor replacement team. ARCC is a longtime Access Fund Affiliate and a grassroots climbing non-profit working to steward and protect Arkansas climbing.
Southwest Virginia Climbers Coalition
Southwest Virginia Climbers Coalition (SVCC) was awarded funding for fixed anchor replacement in Breaks Interstate Park, a state park located across the Virginia-Kentucky line. The park was officially opened to climbing earlier this year, and SVCC will upgrade anchors on dozens of historic, sandstone routes in Breaks. SVCC is an Access Fund Affiliate and volunteer-run climbing non-profit focused on stewardship and protection of southwest Virginia climbing areas.
Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition
We are pleased to award funding to the Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition (WMCC) to replace fixed anchors at Farley Ledges, Mormon Hollow, and the Sunbowl. WMCC will focus its work on bolts and top-anchors, using new long-lasting glue-in bolts. WMCC is a longstanding Access Fund Affiliate and local climbing organization that leads stewardship and protection of western Massachusetts climbing resources.
Boise Climbers Alliance
Boise Climber’s Alliance (BCA) was awarded funding to replace fixed anchors at Black Cliffs and Short Cliffs outside of Boise, Idaho. BCA will focus their work on worn and outdated top-anchors and protection bolts. BCA is an Access Fund Affiliate and grassroots local climbing organization working to steward and protect Boise area climbing resources.
Ohio Climbers Coalition
Ohio Climbers Coalition (OCC) was awarded funding to replace fixed anchors in Springfield Gorge, Ohio. This historic climbing area is being revitalized by local community partners, and it is being transformed into a climbing park—likely the largest climbing area in Ohio. OCC’s anchor replacement work will focus on updating the area’s aging bolts and top-anchors. OCC is an Access Fund Affiliate and local, grassroots climbing advocacy and conservation organization.
Southern Idaho Climbers Coalition
We are pleased to award funding to the Southern Idaho Climbers Coalition (SICC) to replace fixed anchors at The Prow climbing area. SICC’s project will upgrade 18 routes with bomber, long-lasting half-inch stainless steel bolts and hardware. SICC is an Access Fund Affiliate and a local climbing stewardship organization working in the Twin Falls area.
Illinois Climbers Association
Illinois Climbers Coalition (ICA) was awarded funding to replace fixed anchors in Jackson Falls, Illinois. Jackson Falls is one of the most popular climbing destinations in the Midwest, and ICA will focus on upgrading the area’s aging bolts and anchors with glue-in bolts and stainless steel hardware. ICA is an Access Fund Affiliate and longtime Illinois climbing advocacy and stewardship organization.
New River Alliance of Climbers
We are pleased to award funding to the New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC) to replace fixed anchors in Summersville Lake, West Virginia. NRAC is an Access Fund Affiliate and local climbing advocacy non-profit working to protect New River Gorge climbing resources.
Carolina Climbers Coalition
Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) was awarded funding to replace fixed anchors at Hidden Valley, Virginia. The CCC worked with Access Fund to acquire the Hidden Valley property in 2014. CCC is an Access Fund Affiliate and the climbing advocacy and conservation organization preserving and protecting climbing in North and South Carolina.
Minnesota Climbers Association
We are pleased to award funding to the Minnesota Climbers Association (MCA) to replace fixed anchors in Willow River State Park, Wisconsin. Willow River is a popular mid-western limestone sport crag, and MCA will continue to upgrade the area’s old 3/8″ bolts to modern, long-lasting glue-in anchors. MCA is an Access Fund Affiliate and local climbing advocacy and conservation organization working to steward and protect climbing in Minnesota and surrounding areas.
Climbing Association of Southern Arizona
Climbing Association of Southern Arizona (CASA) was awarded funding to support a long-term anchor replacement project on Mt. Lemmon, a vast climbing area with thousands of routes. CASA will focus its efforts on the mountain’s most popular, high-traffic routes. CASA maintains a successful working partnership with Coronado National Forest, who owns and manages Mt. Lemmon.
Southern Utah Climber’s Association
We are pleased to award funding to the Southern Utah Climber’s Association (SUCA) for ongoing anchor replacement work in Utah Hills climbing areas. SUCA’s work will focus on Black and Tan, Kelly’s Rock, Gorilla, Simean Complex, and Soul Asylum. SUCA is a local climbing organization that leads regular stewardship and partnership projects with the Bureau of Land Management. The group has already helped replace over 800 anchors in the St. George region.
Friends of Joshua Tree
Friends of Joshua Tree (FOJT) was awarded funding to replace fixed anchors at Joshua Tree’s Echo Rock, Intersection Rock, and other areas. A well-regarded partner of Joshua Tree National Park, FOJT has led sustainable fixed anchor and bolt replacement in Joshua Tree for more than a decade. The grant will support their ongoing efforts to upgrade routes with half-inch stainless steel bolts and hardware. FOJT is an Access Fund Affiliate and a non-profit climbing stewardship and advocacy organization.
Friends of Pinnacles
Friends of Pinnacles (FoP) was awarded funding for a second year to support ongoing anchor replacement work in California’s Pinnacles National Monument. FoP maintains a successful working partnership with land managers at Pinnacles, working to address climbing access, stewardship, education, and fixed anchors. Since 1991, FoP has replaced more than 500 bolts in the Pinnacles using a hand drill, in compliance with land management policy.
Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
We are pleased to award Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) with funding to replace fixed anhors in Lower Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. The project builds off of SLCA’s recent success in American Fork and Big Cottonwood Canyon, where they upgraded dozens of popular routes. The work in Little Cottonwood Canyon will be coordinated by SLCA’s new Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative. SLCA is an Access Fund Affiliate and a local, non-profit climbing advocacy and stewardship organization focused on the climbing resources of the Wasatch and beyond.
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