Inside Outdoor Summer 2016

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Patagonia’s Pandora’s Box
Editor’s Letter
You have to give it up to Patagonia. It took real guts to back research sug-
gesting synthetic fibers in performance apparel may be contributing to a sig-
nificant microfiber pollution problem. There are few instances in the history
of corporate American when a large, well-known company so openly acknowl-
edged a potentially major issue with a component that goes into a substan-
tial amount of its product. And not just Patagonia product, the polyester, ny-
lon, acrylic, and rayon fibers prominent in the findings are deeply intertwined
into everything we have come to know about outdoor performance apparel.
Certainly, it’s not unprecedented for outdoor companies to take a stand for
the planet, far from it. Recent campaigns against long-chain DWR were very
important, and the pressure to humanize down production certainly ruffled
some feathers. Even so, market applications of both those components are but
slices in a much broader outdoor apparel product category that regularly utiliz-
es vast amounts of synthetic fibers. Of the 30 or so performance apparel items
in our semi-annual product showcase (page 42) that are likely to see the inside
of a washing machine, nearly all likely use some synthetic fiber. Make no mis-
take, Patagonia’s move is causing quiet shockwaves through the supply chain.
Granted, Patagonia knows any admittance isn’t going to suddenly crater
apparel sales; consumer change simply doesn’t happen that quickly. But it’s not
just Patagonia’s sales and marketing strategies and sacrifices that are of note.
Bigger to me is how Patagonia’s decision illuminates some tough realities for
all of us. After all, synthetic fibers are pervasive in outdoor apparel, everywhere
from socks to skull caps, base layer to jackets, water sports to winter mountain
activities. We love our synthetic fibers, and for some good reasons. But now we
also must acknowledge, according to the study, that “Recent evidence supports
microfiber pollution pervading terrestrial environments and the atmosphere as
well,” and that “microfibers are of particular concern regarding their potential
to transport hazardous chemicals into the environment.”
When assessing major global issues such as climate change and pollution,
it’s easy to point to the faceless villains: big oil, big energy, big politics, etc. But
after reading about the ties between performance apparel and microplastic
pollution, it’s hard for me not to visualize all those individual consumer washing
machines in all those individual homes and all those individual, single garments.
These pollutants, in other words, are literally coming right off our backs.
If nothing else, it is a clear reminder how the decisions we all make are
just as important as the changes we fight for in government regulations and
corporate practices. Likewise, it’s a stark reminder of how challenging it will
be to continue to reconcile our responsibilities as stewards of the planet while
at the same time relying on the continuous cycle of capitalistic consumption.
After all, until our processes, components and delivery mechanism are all
completely sustainable or neutral, logic says it’s typically better ecologically
not to buy than to drive to the store and buy. That’s not always conducive
to a successful and healthy “industry.”
It may sound disheartening, but only if hope is left in the box. Patagonia
could air its dirty laundry because it apparently believes, as I do, that its
employees, providers and partners can and will find solutions. Patagonia
also knows, as I do, that outdoor vendors, retailers and their consumers are
routinely on the forefront of sustainability movements. That’s why, time and
time again, the outdoor market is routinely treated as proving grounds for
earth-friendly and socially conscious start-ups.
Things aren’t going to get easier. The microfiber pollution problem
shows we have a lot of work to do and some gut checks to endure on the
way to becoming a truly clean industry. Patagonia’s leaders deserves credit
for willingly facing those facts.
– MV
Martin Vilaboy
Editor-in-Chief
Percy Zamora
Art Director
Ernest Shiwanov
Editor at Large
Berge Kaprelian
Group Publisher
Rene Galan
Account Executive
Miki Takeuchi
Digital Media
Jennifer Vilaboy
Production Director
Beka Publishing
Berge Kaprelian
President and CEO
Neil Ende
General Counsel
Jim Bankes
Business Accounting
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Inside Outdoor | Summer 2016 6